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Color Choices

Color differences may not be obvious. If you've ever been to a paint store, you know that there are many shades of white. When a diamond is referred to as a white diamond, the color could fall within a range from icy winter white to warm summer white. These color differences can be very subtle and difficult to see. Therefore, they are judged and graded in controlled lighting conditions and compared to a master set for accuracy. The diamond is then assigned a letter grade from a color scale established by The Gemological Institute of America (GIA).

Why start at "D"? Before GIA introduced the GIA D-Z Color Grading Scale, there were many grading systems that were based on variable standards. A, B, and C grades were widely used without clear definition. Other misinterpreted terms also existed such as "blue white." GIA wanted symbols that would not have any association with earlier systems. Thus the universally recognized GIA scale starts at the letter D.

At what point will color be noticeable? D color grade stands for the absolute absence of a body tint. The further down the alphabet, the more body color the stone has. However, it is extremely difficult to detect any difference between D, E, and F. Grades that range between G and H will also appear colorless except when placed right next to D. Not everybody's eyes are the same, but as a general guide most people will start to notice a very slight yellow tint in grades J, K, L, especially in larger stones.

Metal makes a difference. Icy white color grades of D through H are most stunning in white mountings in platinum or white gold. Warmer white color grades of I through Z are more desirable in yellow gold settings. A higher color grade will contrast nicely in a yellow metal. The tint of J-Z diamonds will appear more pronounced in white metals.

Color affects value. Colorless diamonds have always been in demand. The grade of "D" is extremely rare. Combine rarity with demand and a dramatic affect on value is the result. In fact two otherwise equally graded 1.00 carat diamonds of VS1 clarity and good cut can vary as much as 40% in value from the color grade of D to I.

Color affects beauty. The less color tint that a diamond has, the more pleasing is the effect of light returned from the stone. The rainbow flash of colors known as dispersion seems to spark more brilliantly in a white diamond. However, beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. A rich champagne color can make a stunning appearance in the right setting.

Diamonds can be pink. They can also be lemon yellow, green or violet. Diamonds have been discovered in almost every color of the rainbow. These alternative colors are known as fancy colors and can be very rare.

Color grades may vary between graders. Ideally the color grading scale should be a uniform reference tool. Unfortunately grading usually relies on the judgment of human eyes. Inaccurate comparisons are likely if you rely on grades given by different graders or labs. If you are comparing color grades from different stores, ask to see only diamonds that were graded by the same independent lab. For instance, compare diamonds graded by the European Gemological Lab (EGL) only with other EGL graded stones.

Mills Jewelers provides the tools for your comparison. Remember, you already have the most important equipment for judging color; your own eyes. Use them in person by looking at loose diamonds side by side in full spectrum lighting without the influence of background colors. You can decide what color choice is right for you. We provide the opportunity.